Softest, Chewiest Cinnamon Rolls

Make the tangzhong: heat 30 g flour and 150 g milk in a small pan, whisking until thick like pastry cream. Remove from heat and cool fully.

Combine the dough milk, whole eggs, yolks, yeast, sugar, and tangzhong. Add the dough flour and salt; mix until shaggy. Add softened butter gradually, then knead in a stand mixer on speed 2 for 10–15 minutes, until the dough passes a windowpane test.

Cover the bowl. Either let rise at room temperature for 60–90 minutes until about 50% risen, then refrigerate 8–24 hours; or refrigerate immediately for 12–24 hours.

The next day, remove from the refrigerator and roll into a rectangle about 12×18 inches. Spread with the soft filling butter, then add the brown sugar, cinnamon, and pinch of salt. Add the optional vanilla to the filling if using.

Roll tightly from the long edge. Cut into 2-inch rolls with dental floss and place in a buttered 9×13-inch pan.

Proof in a warm place until very puffy and jiggly, nearly doubled. This can take about 2 hours, depending on room temperature.

Bake at 350°F (177°C) for about 22–28 minutes, until the centers are about 190–195°F.

Blend the glaze ingredients, adjusting heavy cream to the desired texture. Spread over the rolls while warm.